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Specialist DIR Kit OK this is the home of the Gavin - but questions and observations about other scooters, lights, video housing, RB80 etc. can find a home here.

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Old March 20th, 2006, 09:09 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Western Mountain CBA II

Have any of you folkes burn-tested you primary's using the above?

I'm wondering what the current draw of the Halcyon 18W HID would be to replicate it with this piece of kit?

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Old March 20th, 2006, 10:49 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Quote: (Originally Posted by Rick)
I'm wondering what the current draw of the Halcyon 18W HID would be to replicate it with this piece of kit?
Should draw about 2A. IIRC The W-A ballast runs about 75% efficiency so a 18W will present more like a 24W load (18 ÷ 0.75). Therefore 24W ÷ 12V = 2A

However, as the voltage of the pack drops the ballast will start to draw more to regulate the voltage presented to the bulb (I might have described that slightly wrong but in principle it's something like that). I'm guessing this piece of kit won't do that though?

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Old March 21st, 2006, 04:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Why not just measure the current? then you could set up the CBA if you wish to follow this route. But I am with Joe on this one - a bucket is cheaper and multifunctional - you can use it to catch see sickness in :p

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Old March 21st, 2006, 09:51 AM   #4 (permalink)
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And there was me thinking CBA was being lazy, standing as it does for "Can't Be Arsed". As in "Sorry, I'd have done that thing but I had an attack of CBA".
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Old March 21st, 2006, 09:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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CBA "Can't Be Arsed" is exactly right regarding burning my light for 6 hours checking it every 10 mins!

I also don't fancy burning my bulb (read as expensive when burnt out) when I can simulate the load.

I'll give it a whirl on 2A Joe and let you know my findings

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Old March 21st, 2006, 09:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
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2A for the Halcyon 18W ballast, 1.75A for the Salvo 18W ballast is pretty close. The lights are closer to a constant-wattage circuit rather than a constant-current circuit so you can't simulate them exactly.

Also, I may junk my CBAII after seeing a fluke digital multimeter that had a computer interface on it produce similarly pretty graphs and allow you to do scooter burntests...

Last edited by lamont; March 21st, 2006 at 09:17 PM.
 
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Old March 21st, 2006, 09:46 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote: (Originally Posted by lamont)
Also, I may junk my CBAII after seeing a fluke digital multimeter that had a computer interface on it produce similarly pretty graphs and allow you to do scooter burntests...
Do you have any more info on the interface?
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Old March 21st, 2006, 11:52 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote: (Originally Posted by Rick)
Do you have any more info on the interface?
I think it was a fluke 189 which has a USB interface to plug it into your PC. Looks like it runs about $500 over here though...
 
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Old March 22nd, 2006, 01:08 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote: (Originally Posted by lamont)
I think it was a fluke 189 which has a USB interface to plug it into your PC. Looks like it runs about $500 over here though...
If you can wait a little bit, you can borrow my multimeter with a serial connection, that I use to burn test stuff.

Also with Hid lamps the number of strikes is more important than the time the lamp is run for.

HTH
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Old March 22nd, 2006, 02:26 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote: (Originally Posted by JohnKendall)
Also with Hid lamps the number of strikes is more important than the time the lamp is run for.
John - not sure what you mean :D

Burntime is much more important than how many times you can strike the light (since in a overhead environment how likely are you to be restriking the light?). If you meant burntime can be affected by the number times you strike - thats interesting and all the more reason to only turn your light on once.

IIRC flourescent lights are the same too, i.e., it takes more energy to turn them on than running them - which makes it silly to turn off lights when you leave a room for short periods to save energy. Anybody got any reliable information on this?
 
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