Dorota & Wojtek(Offline)

We would like to write a bit about the conservation of the H precision inflators (the ones from stainless steel) in the context of most common “problem” of sticking the inflation button We have experienced this sticking problem several times with several divers, so now after a while we are a bit familiar with the way to prevent it (as it is described in the manual) because in our opinion it is still very precise tool.

We have met with two conservation schools – one saying „grease everything what you can” and the other „leave everything clean and dry”.

We have tested both of them and it came out that the thread connection that is filled completely with grease takes in less debris then one not greased (in first case there is simply no space for any debris at all)

For astute observers: the corrosion you might see on the elements shown on the pictures is practlically not possible to avoid – in Red Sea all parts are corroding including those from all kinds of “stainless steel” – so do not bother.

Conservation.

Optimal tools
- wrench/spanner (25mm)
- big screwdriver
- “zgłębnik dentystyczny” – hehehe –the tool dentists use tp poke in your teeth (or any other o-ring remover)
- ultrasound cleaner
- silicone grease


As first small suggestion – we propose to screw the part holding the inflation button gently, so you can unsrew it only with your hands. But the fist time conservation will require the wrench/spanner 26mm and then your hands only...



And how it looks after unscrewing:



We can make two kinds of conservation of this element

• Fast
• Full
  
  1 – Fast conservation
  We would need for it a big syringe and a silikone grease.
  
  After unscrewing the inflation button part, we push the inflation button while injecting the silicone into this hole (shown on the picture) untill it’s totally filled with silicone.

While injecting we can push/release the button several times.

But before the fast conservation we propose to make the full version (or more full a bit) at least once. We are making the fast conservation every 20-25 dives, normally the same time when we are lubricating the o-ring on inflation hoses or o-rings on second stages hoses (at then end connected to second stages).

2 – Full conservation

With the screwdirver unscrew the part from inside the part (shown on the picture).





It is good to push the inflation button while unscrewing. When we are not able to unscrew it (especially making it the first time), we can put something into the small hole that is on the inflation button to block its ax movements.



And here are parts we find inside:



When we plan to use ultrasound cleaner – we suggest to take away all o-rings (anyway it is good to take them away for cleaning any debris that could be under).

After cleaning all parts we put plenty of silicone grease inside.



..and then into the filled with silicone part we put back the „screw” or rather part of the „stearing valve” (the bolt with two small o-rings) – the excess of silicone will flow from the hole used for the fast conservation.



The silicone will cover also the threaded end of the bolt what will make it easer to unscrew later on while making any subsequesnt conservations.



Now we screw back the “screw” (the one on the bolt) – we shell make it gently untill we fill the first resistance. We should also put some silicone grease on the thread which will hold the inflation part inside the inflator and we think it is better to make it with your hand not a wrench...

We use 5 of such inflator – and after introducing this conseravtion methods we did not experience any af the „sticky” problmes...



Most of our dives we make in Red Sea – the salt crystals form almost everywhere where crystals can form – that is the reason why we use the “full with silicone grease” method of conservation. We just came to conclusion that if the interior of the inflator is filled with silicone there is no place for anything else – also salt crystals

When you have ever serviced your inflation valve on a dry suit you have maybe noticed that the concept behind the construction is basicly the same – so the solution is proven to be ok. But it requires certain “diving maturity” – it is not an inflator for divers, that are not interested how the equipment works – it is for aware diver knowing what they want


So good luck and nice greasing...

rjack(Offline)

I have adopted the same approach, fill it with cheap silicon grease! (I use the non-O2 compliant stuff leftover from years ago).

At first I was a bit nervous about not have lock-tight (thread compound) helping to hold the various components together. Have you experienced any issues with them coming apart? I don't yet have enough mileage on mine to tell.

Richard

Oh and by the way, your English is just great!

Dorota & Wojtek(Offline)

Hi rjack,

Both of us did around 700 dives with inflators serviced this way - nothig went apart so far. We think that in this place there are no strain/stress that may couse accidental un-twisting/un-screwing.

We normally suggest this technics to most of our students - and they use it with success. Checking the inflator integrity can be treated as the same procedure as checking the connection between regulators' second stages and thier hoses (we also have them screwed in by hand). We just got used to inspect all pieces before jumping to the water.

When smoething will fall apart - we will let all know

Best,

canucksubmariner(Offline)

Lot of work to make something work. get a Scubapro Balanced Inflator and NEVER worry about it.

The higher flow is easy to control and it never breaks which IMHO is better than low flow and HIGH chance of failure.

Nice post however.

rjack(Offline)

[quote=canucksubmariner]Lot of work to make something work. get a Scubapro Balanced Inflator and NEVER worry about it.
[quote]

Can you post a link/description? Never heard of it.

Richard

Phil O(Offline)

Good write up of the maintenance of the inflator - I wish I had read it earlier.

A few weeks back I noticed the inflator was leaking and passing gas into my wing so decided it was high time I maintained it. I dismantled it quite easily, claned all the parts and siliconed greased it and then put it together again. A week later I took the wing into a pool for a check up and while at 3m deep I checked the tightness of the stainless steel valve with my fingers - it flew out under pressure and the release of air through the inflator sent me flying to the surface.

I got in touch with Halcyon and Corey offered to check it out and found that the internal threads of the inflator vavle body had stripped. The logical conclusion would be that I had stripped it when re-assembling the valve. So the big lesson here is only tighten them finger tight and don't use a shifter ... even a wee small one.

However a big thank you for the brilliant service from Halcyon - they replaced the valve body, overhauled the stainless bits and sent me back the unit at no cost at all .. so thanks Corey.

__________________
Phil

canucksubmariner(Offline)

[quote=rjack][quote=canucksubmariner]Lot of work to make something work. get a Scubapro Balanced Inflator and NEVER worry about it.
http://www.scubapro.co.uk/products.asp?P=461

These things run around 80-90 retail in the US.

If you want to slow the flow (which honestly isn't that fast and it is very easy to control) you can take the nipple off, use solder inside the nipple to make a restriction of flow.

Back in the dark old days of deep air people used to remove the standard nipple on these and replace with a AIR2 nipple for even higher flow.....

neilh (Online)

Heheh - another cracking maintenance article, thanks! I've been wondering about how to do this but not had the confidence to try. At least now I've got something I can look at while I do it!

Keep 'em coming!

SeaJay(Offline)

Lots of work to make something work.

Seriously, have you tried breathing off of one of the Scubapros? Any good? Can they, like the Halcyons, be used as a third reg? The buttons don't look to lend well to that.

FYI, y'all... I had a sticky button on one of my old Pioneer wings - one with the black buttons (BBOD) instead of the stainless steel buttons (SSBOD). So... The problem of "sticky buttons" isn't solely a stainless steel inflator issue.

After servicing the inflator, though, there's a couple of things I can tell:

1. This particular inflator's been stuck for a long, long time. It continued to function fine. I had no idea there was something wrong. As long as I can remember the button's only had a couple of millimeters of travel, and yet, after servicing, I'm finding that it was designed to travel quite a bit more. Who'd have thunk it?

2. While the servicing procedure's a little different from the stainless button inflator, it's very similar, and inside the parts are identical. I don't see any reason to believe that the stainless buttons are any better or worse than the black buttoned or orange buttoned inflators.

3. In putting one of my inflators back together (with a wrench ("spanner")) I snapped the long piston which holds the deflator valve together. (I serviced both buttons.) It took a lot less force than I anticipated - definitely go easy on all of these screw parts. Hand tight would seem just fine.

4. After a lot of cursing for breaking a part that wasn't really broken in the first place (just thought I'd get it too, since my inflator valve was ready to be cleaned), I was pleasantly surprised to find that a completely new inflator - with the cool stainless steel buttons - can be had for less than $50. That's like 35 Euros. Damn, for that price I shouldn't have even bothered to service the stupid thing. Let me tell you, I was about $150 mad for a $50 part. Just get a new one.

jasonmh(Offline)

Thank you very much for this great post. I was wondering, do you change the O-rings at each cleaning, or if not, how often do you change them.
Do you use a parts kit for them or find them yourself?
I have never had a problem with my inflator, but I have always wanted to know how to do this.
Thanks,
Jason