Mk20 Repair Guide

*JohnKendall* · August 20th, 2006, 09:12 PM

Hi All,

does anyone have a copy of the .pdf mk20 repair guide? My copy seems to have corrupted.

Let me know please.

Thanks
J

Joe Hesketh · August 20th, 2006, 09:22 PM

PM Sent

*JohnKendall* · August 20th, 2006, 09:44 PM

Thanks Joe

J

NickB · August 20th, 2006, 10:24 PM

As it happens, I stripped down and rebuilt a Mk20 today. If you find you have one of the older type pistons (heavy and mostly metal) you can exchange it for a new type for free if you know a friendly Scubapro techy. All part of Scubapro's lifetime upgrade policy apparently.

Make sure you remember where all those shims go

*JohnKendall* · August 20th, 2006, 10:30 PM

Quote: (Originally Posted by NickB)

As it happens, I stripped down and rebuilt a Mk20 today. If you find you have one of the older type pistons (heavy and mostly metal) you can exchange it for a new type for free if you know a friendly Scubapro techy. All part of Scubapro's lifetime upgrade policy apparently.

Make sure you remember where all those shims go

Currently remembering where the shims go isn't the problem. It's getting off the Nut that holds the HP stuff in. Bastard seems to be completely locked solid.

Any tips?

J

NickB · August 21st, 2006, 11:00 AM

Quote: (Originally Posted by JohnKendall)

Currently remembering where the shims go isn't the problem. It's getting off the Nut that holds the HP stuff in. Bastard seems to be completely locked solid

If you don't have a vice to hold the regulator firm, screw it into a cylinder valve. Then just use an 8mm Allen key and give it a tap with a mallet. There's another shim under the end cap acting as a washer.

My biggest problem is usually removing the DIN fitting from the main body, that takes a lot of grunt.

prharris · August 21st, 2006, 01:48 PM

Or you can put a used co2 cartridge into one or two of the MP ports and grip them in the vice.

Devon Rob · August 25th, 2006, 03:23 PM

Quote: (Originally Posted by JohnKendall)

Any tips?

I´m sure you´ve sorted it by now but a good tip anyway is to heat it up, using a hairdryer or non-flame paint stripper. Congrats on the Tech 2
Devon Rob

August 20th, 2006, 09:12 PM	#1 (permalink)
JohnKendall(Offline) GUE Instructor/DIRX Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Cambridge, UK Posts: 1,102	Mk20 Repair Guide Hi All, does anyone have a copy of the .pdf mk20 repair guide? My copy seems to have corrupted. Let me know please. Thanks J __________________ John Kendall http://www.guetraining.com/ GUE Instruction, Santi and Halcyon Equipment NEW - Online Santi Shop

August 20th, 2006, 09:44 PM	#3 (permalink)
JohnKendall(Offline) GUE Instructor/DIRX Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Cambridge, UK Posts: 1,102	Thanks Joe J __________________ John Kendall http://www.guetraining.com/ GUE Instruction, Santi and Halcyon Equipment NEW - Online Santi Shop

August 20th, 2006, 10:24 PM	#4 (permalink)
NickB(Offline) Always lowering the tone Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Cardiff, UK Posts: 350	As it happens, I stripped down and rebuilt a Mk20 today. If you find you have one of the older type pistons (heavy and mostly metal) you can exchange it for a new type for free if you know a friendly Scubapro techy. All part of Scubapro's lifetime upgrade policy apparently. Make sure you remember where all those shims go __________________ SnowHeads / BreastFriends / Free Money!

August 20th, 2006, 10:30 PM	#5 (permalink)
JohnKendall(Offline) GUE Instructor/DIRX Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Cambridge, UK Posts: 1,102	Quote: (Originally Posted by NickB) As it happens, I stripped down and rebuilt a Mk20 today. If you find you have one of the older type pistons (heavy and mostly metal) you can exchange it for a new type for free if you know a friendly Scubapro techy. All part of Scubapro's lifetime upgrade policy apparently. Make sure you remember where all those shims go Currently remembering where the shims go isn't the problem. It's getting off the Nut that holds the HP stuff in. Bastard seems to be completely locked solid. Any tips? J __________________ John Kendall http://www.guetraining.com/ GUE Instruction, Santi and Halcyon Equipment NEW - Online Santi Shop

August 21st, 2006, 11:00 AM	#6 (permalink)
NickB(Offline) Always lowering the tone Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Cardiff, UK Posts: 350	Quote: (Originally Posted by JohnKendall) Currently remembering where the shims go isn't the problem. It's getting off the Nut that holds the HP stuff in. Bastard seems to be completely locked solid If you don't have a vice to hold the regulator firm, screw it into a cylinder valve. Then just use an 8mm Allen key and give it a tap with a mallet. There's another shim under the end cap acting as a washer. My biggest problem is usually removing the DIN fitting from the main body, that takes a lot of grunt. __________________ SnowHeads / BreastFriends / Free Money!

August 20th, 2006, 09:22 PM	#2 (permalink)
Joe Hesketh(Offline) New Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: London, UK Posts: 658	PM Sent

August 21st, 2006, 01:48 PM	#7 (permalink)
prharris(Offline) New Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Plymouth Posts: 91	Or you can put a used co2 cartridge into one or two of the MP ports and grip them in the vice.

August 25th, 2006, 03:23 PM	#8 (permalink)
Devon Rob(Offline) Can´t remember-member Pacman Champion! Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Lyme Bay.Devon.UK formerly Hamburg, Ger. Posts: 317	Quote: (Originally Posted by JohnKendall) Any tips? I´m sure you´ve sorted it by now but a good tip anyway is to heat it up, using a hairdryer or non-flame paint stripper. Congrats on the Tech 2 Devon Rob __________________ this mail was checked for viruses,worms & bad breath